Lee’s Ferry and Glen Canyon Arizona

NFS campground view

Lee’s Ferry is the only place in 700 miles of canyon country where one can drive to the Colorado River.  This made it a prominent location in the history of northeastern Arizona.  Today it can be reached from Page AZ or the North Rim of the Grand Canyon or from Flagstaff off US 89.  Lee’s Ferry Campground is part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and one of the most beautiful campgrounds we have ever visited.  Our photos really don’t do it justice.  It is surrounded on 3 sides by the Colorado River and beautiful red cliffs.  We hiked a scenic trail up a dry wash before visiting the riverside to see boats launching and historic ruins.

Vermillion Cliffs

Dry wash trail

Opuntia cacti blooming

Ruins Lee’s Fort

Colorado River launch point

Great trout fishing

Lee’s Ferry is the launch point for all raft trips through the Grand Canyon.  It is also at the end of the Glen Canyon area of the river.  We took a boat tour of the canyon below the Glen Canyon Dam which was very controversial when it was built.  The resulting Lake Powell is now a large recreation area and the town of Page is a booming recreation destination.  We had a great guide for the river trip which cruised thru smooth water between towering red cliffs.  The trip included a stop to see ancient petroglyphs.

Navaho Bridge

Marble Canyon from bridge

Glen Canyon Dam

River below dam

River boat trip

Beach for petroglyph viewing

Very detailed petroglyphs

Late day sun on red rocks

We visited Lee’s Ferry the first week of May.  The weather was perfect.  We understand it can get very hot in Summer and quite cold in Winter.  There are many trails to explore and guided fishing trips available.

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Moab

Moab Utah is an adventurers dream destination.  Its popular with hikers, mountain bikers, rafters, rock climbers, ATV riders and more.  Its near Arches NP and Canyonlands NP.  Most all the land around Moab is Federal whether BLM, National Forest or National Park.  There is an abundance of boondocking opportunities which was good for us as our visit included Memorial Day weekend.

Red Rock over the
Colorado River

Rock art too

Moab Museum of Movies and Western Heritage

We found a spot suitable for Goldie in an area called Klondike Bluffs North.  It was east of US 191 about  15 miles north of town.  There’s a good gravel road about 2 miles into an area with multiple previously used sites.  The weather was unsettled and we had rain 5 days in a row.  (Yes, we had rain in Moab).  The red dirt of Moab turns to slippery mud when wet.  We were glad it dried out before we had to move Goldie again.  The beautiful Red Cliffs Lodge on the Colorado River houses the free Museum of Movies and Western Heritage.

Goldie boondocking
near Moab

View from Klondike Bluffs

Rafting the Castle Valley portion of the Colorado River is very popular in Moab.  We called our friends at Mild to Wild Rafting https://mild2wildrafting.com/utah-rafting/colorado-river-rafting.html to book a trip with their Moab office.  The morning trip was beautiful.  Very peaceful with a few splashes.  They offer many rafting options around Moab. 

Fisher Towers used in many films

One of the main attractions near Moab is Canyonlands National Park.  We have visited the Islands in the Sky section before but never the Needles section.  Church Rock  is near the turnoff.  Then comes Newspaper Rock, one the largest rockart panels we’ve seen.  Near the visitors center we did a hike to more rock art, a cowboy camp and a well preserved puebloan granary.  We could’ve hiked up to the top of the rock but lightning changed our plans.  More left to see on another visit.

Church Rock

Newspaper Rock –
more rock art

Storms approaching

Well preserved granary

Cowboy camp

Needles canyon

More storms –
time to go

Hiking around Moab is abundant and we found two great hikes walking from our site at Klondike Bluffs.  This area is also known as Copper Ridge Dinosaur Tracks.  The one trail we hiked is called Dinosaur Stomping Ground as there are over 2200 fossilized footprints in the rock ridge.  It was a beautiful hike to an overlook of a valley in front of Arches NP.  The other hike led us to giant allosaurus type footprints in the rock and then up another ridge to an abandoned mine and equipment.

Big footprints in the rock

Over 2200 individual prints

Water holes on the trail

Cacti blooming

View toward Arches

Allosaurus footprints

Relics of the mining period

Moab is one of those places where we find more to see each time we visit.  More to come back for.

 

 

 

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Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad

C&TSRR Depot in Chama

The Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad runs from Chama NM to Antonito CO on a preserved portion of the old Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad.  It is consistently ranked the number one scenic railroad in the United States.  Its 64 miles of unspoiled beauty.  Its narrow gauge railroading at its best.  We love it.

Restored coal tower with approaching steam loco

Restored loco 318 on display

Casual yard atmosphere

Here we go

Our friend Grant Luckhardt is a volunteer on the railroad and joined us for a ride on the entire length of the line from Antonito to Chama.  The train travels across the Colorado prairie into New Mexico, then thru the Mud Tunnel and the Rock Tunnel, into Toltec Gorge, the Los Pinos valley, Tanglefoot Curve,  up and over Cumbres Pass (10,512 feet), around Windy Point and down to Chama.  Every trip includes a lunch stop with a large and varied buffet lunch.

Grant and Randy

The next day we chased the train and we were lucky to find a double-header out of Chama.  When one locomotive isn’t enough to haul the train up to Cumbres Pass another engine is added for that part  of the trip.  We found #464, nicknamed “The Mudhen” coupled with #484 providing the power that day.  This is a real treat!

Double-header

After Cumbres just the Mudhen

Riding steam trains and chasing steam trains are highlights for any year and 2019 did not disappoint.

 

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Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

We love the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.  It’s what brought us to Durango Colorado for the first time over 20 years ago.  It is still an icon of Southwest Colorado in spite of the devastating 2018 fire no doubt started by one of their coal burning steam locomotives.  Recently the Federal Government filed suit against the railroad for starting the fire.  No one doubts they started it and will have to settle.  In the meantime people in the community continue to honk and wave to the train and know its bringing prosperity to the town.  The D and S is making changes to reduce the chance of another fire including converting a locomotive to burn oil and running diesels on occasion when fire danger is high.  They also have a greater fire fighting capability on the speeders following the train to catch small fires.  For years the train has more than offset their carbon footprint with tree plantings and other activities.  No one wants the train to go away.

Meanwhile… ridership is up this year.  Colorado  had  a tremendous  amount  of snow  this  past  winter  and  we  have  never  seen  so  many  waterfalls.  And  avalanches!  The  first  train  to  Silverton  in  April  found  60  (thats  right,  sixty)  feet  of  snow  covering  the  tracks  at  one  point.  The  ride  is  still  spectacular.

Site of avalanche that left 60 feet of snow over track

We hope the D and S survives this latest disaster.  Its been running since 1880 and we hope it continues far into the future.

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Goblin Valley State Park

Utah has an abundance of scenic beauty.  First impressions of Utah are often blah.  Desert, sand, desert, mountain, desert.  But the state has many national parks and monuments and spectacular scenery.

Ripple in the earth at
San Rafael Swell

A recent stop at an information tent told us about Goblin Valley State Park.  What bizarre rock formations!  Like big and little toadstools all arrayed across just one desert valley.  We imagined all kinds of animals and faces.  Utah has the most impressive collection of rock formations.

Spires in the desert

Goblins in the foreground

I see a rat

After visiting the goblins we headed off to a slot canyon hike.  The weather was threatening so we cut it short but it was still beautiful.  Some real skinny spaces and scrambling up dry waterfalls.

Di in the slot

So if you’re visiting Utah, there is much more to see besides Arches, Zion, Bryce, Capital Reef, Canyonlands et al.  There are scenic wonders most of us have never heard of.

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Nine Mile Canyon, Utah

Goldie at Nine Mile Ranch

After Ogden we wanted to travel toward Moab.  On the way we researched a place to stop and discovered Wellington UT and Nine Mile Canyon.  About 24 miles north of US6/191 on Nine Mile Canyon Road is Nine Mile Ranch, the only campground in the area.  The rancher and his wife offer a basic parking spot with available water, flush toilets and a dump station.  There is room for only 3 large RVs.

The Hunt

Utah scenery is hard to beat

Nine Mile Canyon is known as the world’s longest art gallery.  There are 40 miles of rock art from Archaic, Fremont and Ute people who have been traveling this canyon for hundreds perhaps thousands of years.  Great accessible sites are all along the road winding through the canyon.  The skill of the rock artists is remarkable.  It’s amazing that its not a national or state park.Utah is a state with an abundance of natural beauty.  Nine Mile Canyon is another example of under the radar sites that we enjoy discovering.  It is a true joy of the RV lifestyle that we have the time to dig down and find these treasures.

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Sunset Crater, Wupatki and Walnut Canyon National Monuments

While visiting Montezuma Well a volunteer told us about Wupatki north of Flagstaff.  We immediately added it to our itinerary.  Turns out, Wupatki, Sunset Crater and Walnut Canyon are 3 national monuments managed together in the Flagstaff AZ area.  All 3 are worth a visit for different reasons.

We found great free dry camping (boondocking) on Coconino National Forest land off the road directly west from the road to Sunset Crater.  We originally planned to camp in the Bonito NFS campground but they didn’t open until May 3rd even though the weather was gorgeous.

Sunset Crater Volcano erupted in 1085  spewing red hot lava and ash over people who had lived here hundreds of years.  Most fled but returned later to farm the changed landscape.  Today the volcano, cinder cones and solidified lava flows are stark reminders of earth’s violent potential.  Slowly flora and fauna have returned too.

Cinder cone

Craggy rugged lava

Sunset Crater Volcano is closed to hikers

Wupatki National Monument was created to protect the abandoned structures of Sinagua people who had farmed this area for hundreds of years.  In the year 1180 thousands of people lived here.  By 1250 they had moved on.  Their descendants are the Hopi, Zuni and Navajo people.  They were great builders.  The Wupatki ruin is the largest and tallest in the region and even includes a ball court the northern most example of such a structure. 

Short walk to Wukoki Pueblo

Wupatki Pueblo was home to over 100 people

Box Canyon Pueblo

Walnut Canyon National Monument preserves dwellings sheltered by overhanging cliffs in a canyon inhabited over 800 years ago.  It was named a National Monument in 1915.  Artifacts indicate Archaic people had visited the canyon for thousands of years.  The plantlife zones of the canyon range from Sonoran Desert to cooler, moister Pacific Northwestern forests.  The varied landscape was probably a great benefit to native people.

 

Island Trail passes 25 rooms



Leaving the Flagstaff area on our way to the Grand Canyon we stopped to see the canyon of the Little Colorado River.  Very impressive on its own.  Note the flat-as-a-table land right up to the canyon.

Canyon of the Little Colorado River

Sunsets in this part of the world can be spectacular.  This one was OK.

Goldie in her forest hang-out

 

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