Barkerville

The Canadian government and province of British Columbia have preserved and restored a ghost town at the end of a 51 mile road east of Quesnel in central BC.  Over 130 buildings look like they just fell out of the old west.  There is an authentic Chinatown and mine works.  There are actors, horses, carriages, a theatre and mud streets to complete the scene.  There is nothing like experiencing history in a living museum.

Barkerville was at one time the largest city west of Chicago and north of San Francisco with a population of 5000.  In 1862 when Billy Barker found gold in a creek bed in the British territory it started a rush of gold seekers disappointed in their chances in California and the rest of North America.  Over the next 20 years it spurred an industrial revolution that helped build a province.  The Cariboo Waggon Road was the route to the gold.  The highway today follows roughly the same route from Lillooet in the Fraser valley north to Barkerville.  Many towns on the route, such as 100 mile house and 150 mile house, were named due to their distance from Lillooet on the way to Barkerville.

Barkerville is a must-see on the tour of British Columbia.

19th century shops

19th century shops

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chinatown entrance

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chinatown

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actors

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the creek

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typical interior

Barkerville

Barkerville

church

church

 

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mining actors

Posted in British Columbia, Canada | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

Alaska Highway

Now that we have arrived in the Anchorage area we have good internet again.  The trip up through British Columbia to Dawson Creek and the start of the Alaska Highway was a wonderful journey itself.  More on some of those adventures later.

Mile Zero Post

Mile Zero Post

Alaska Hwy - this way

Alaska Hwy – this way

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dawson Creek marks mile 0 of the Alaska Highway.  (Kilometer 0 for the Canadians)  It is a very long road filled with endless wilderness.  We saw black bears, grizzly bears, stone sheep, moose, elk, fox, deer and swans.  We’re sure there are also cariboo and lots more we didn’t see.  There are countless lakes and rivers.  Some HUGE rivers you’ve never heard of with no development that could be seen.  We visited the many towns along the way and found the people friendly and helpful.   Services are nicely spaced and campgrounds are abundant.  There was never any reason to reserve in advance.  Plenty of spaces as long as you didn’t need hookups all the time.  We saw travelers along the way from all over the US and Canada and plenty of Europeans too.

Original wood bridge

Original wood bridge

BC rest area

BC rest area

 

 

 

 

 

Some of our favorite stops along the way included Summit Lake in Stone Mountain Provincial Park (BC), Liard Hot Springs, Skagway AK, Kluane Lake Yukon.  Many areas warned of bear activity (including grizzlys) so hiking was limited.  The history of the building of the highway in 1942 was everywhere.  From old army equipment, structures, photos and even films, the story was told over and over.  It was a monumental engineering project to build the road in about 8 months.  It has been rebuilt almost every year since starting in 1943.

Black bear

Black bear

Wood bison

Wood bison

Now the road is completely paved and in great shape except for an area near the end of the Yukon stretch before the Alaska border. There were lots of frost heaves, potholes and construction with mud and gravel.  This was where we were really glad to have our tow car cover!

Once the road crossed over into Alaska the surface got real smooth.   Then after a little while the frost heaves and potholes returned but not as bad.  Apparently there really is no way to build a road over permafrost without periodic damage.  Our first stop in Alaska was at Border City, a small RV park behind a gas station.  It had been raining and getting kinda cold so we thought some hookups would be nice.  We arrived about 3PM it was 59 degrees and raining.  In 2 hours it was 79  and sunny.

Muncho Lake BC

Muncho Lake BC

We haven’t seen night since we crossed into BC.  Now here in Alaska it is still very bright at 11PM, so we still have not seen the dark.  We want to see the Northern Lights but we’re told we’ll have to wait until August when it gets dark.

There are more stories to tell of our stops along the way.  We just want you to know we are back from the dark side of the moon.  At least we are for now.  More posts to come!

Canyon Creek bridge

Canyon Creek bridge

Whirlpool Canyon rest area

Whirlpool Canyon rest area

Posted in Alaska, Alberta, British Columbia, Canada, RV Travel | Tagged | 3 Comments

The Dark Side of the Moon

Like astronauts circling the moon, we will lose contact with the rest of our world when we entered Canada.  No phone, text or internet (Verizon roaming rates are prohibitive).  So we’ve scheduled our online bill paying, unsubscribed from everything we could find, said goodbye to our kids and we will cross over the border.  It will be an interesting experience. We have grown so accustomed to our tether-less contact, we don’t know what to expect. How will we react?  Will we feel isolated or liberated?

After a wonderful visit with Jason’s family in Seattle its time to travel North to Alaska. We’ll catch you on the other side.

 

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The Oregon Trail and Our Alaskan Trail

On our way to Seattle we stopped to visit The Oregon Trail National Historic site near Baker City in eastern Oregon.  As usual the National Park Service does a splendid job of interpreting the story of those 500,000 intrepid pioneers who mostly walked from Missouri to Oregon from 1845 to 1869.  They had it tough.  It was said you could follow the trail by following the debris left along the way.  And by the graves along the way.

Now here we are getting ready to trek North to Alaska.  Not so much drama for us.  But it is still the grandest RV trip we’ve planned.  While we are assured by recent blogs we’ve read that the road is good and services are available, we really don’t know anyone who has taken this trip recently.  Our auto and RV insurance will cover us in Canada but we must obtain a Canadian insurance card from our carriers.  Our cellphone and mobile internet will not work in Canada.  We hope to find WiFi along the way.  We are constantly reviewing our supplies.  Do we have too much?  Do we have enough?  Trying to anticipate each scenario.  We are even carrying a spare tire for the RV.  Road service may come to change a flat, but a replacement tire could be hundreds of miles away.  Also we hear windshield damage is common even on the new improved road since Summer is also road work season and flying rocks are not uncommon.  Visiting our great friends Dave and Nancy in Boise, we found they had a cover for the front of their Honda CRV.  It will fit our CRV and they loaned it to us for the trip.  They even loaned us their RV GPS.  Huge thanks!  Two less things to worry about.

Now we must decide whether to take the bikes to AK.  Will we use them?  We also have to leave some things with our son Jason in Seattle.  We’ll leave the herb plants that ride in the back seat of the tow car CRV.  Can’t take into Canada, or at least we know we could not bring them back into the US when we return.  Got to leave our personal defense pepper spray, not allowed into Canada.  Will leave a couple extra camp chairs, don’t need the extra weight.  Then we have to evaluate our pantry.  Given our plant-based diet choice, we will have to stock up on certain necessities.  But not over pack, again don’t need the extra weight.  The Okanagan valley of British Columbia should be abundant with produce and Anchorage will be a good re-supply stop down the road.

Like the pioneers of old, we find we have to leave some things along the way.  And we’ll surely pick up others as the need arises.  Our trip is nothing like the pioneers in their prairie schooners other than we carry all our stuff in our modern diesel powered motorhome.  They were excited about the future as we are now.  We don’t know exactly what we will find.  The stakes are not so high for us but still there is adventure ahead.  We are excited about the possibilities.

NPS Site, Baker City OR

NPS Site, Baker City OR

Prairie schooner

Prairie schooner

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Oregon trail across eastern Oregon

Oregon trail across eastern Oregon

Fred (our RV) in middle at Moab

Fred (our RV) in middle at Moab

View from campsite

View from campsite

Camel rock

Camel rock

Shoshone Falls in Idaho

Shoshone Falls in Idaho

Snake River

Snake River

 

Posted in national parks, Oregon, RV Travel | 11 Comments

Golden Spike National Historic Site

IMG_0899IMG_0950 IMG_0900You probably know we are huge train fans and rarely pass on an opportunity to see and learn more about trains.  Rarely do we find a site more historic than this National Park Service site.

This is the place where our nation’s East and West were joined forever by a transportation link.  For the very first time one could travel from New York to San Francisco over land.  This was huge!  And it lead to gigantic social, political, environmental changes that affected the whole world.

This site is just North of the Great Salt Lake in Utah.  We actually found it difficult to locate.  It is marked from some directions by some pretty old signs and leads you down some secondary roads that go nowhere else.  This place that sparked wild celebration coast to coast is kind of an afterthought now in the middle of nowhere.

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IMG_0908But what a great job the park service does!  The site features replicas of the original two locomotives that met at Promontory Summit May 10, 1869.  The locomotives are gleaming, fully operational steam engines.  As on that day the Central Pacific locomotive arriving from the West burns wood and the Union Pacific from the East burns coal.

The staff and volunteers make the visit great for everyone.  The park service film is a perfect overview of the story.  Volunteers have come from as far away as Australia to help the staff.  It is an amazing story we read in Stephen Ambrose’s book “Nothing Like It in the World: The Men Who Built The Transcontinental Railroad 1863-1869”.

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Posted in Desert, national parks, RV Travel, trains | 8 Comments

Bandelier National Monument, Los Alamos NM

 

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Frijoles Canyon

Frijoles Canyon

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artist’s rendition

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Ever since our first trip West when our kids were young, we have always been fascinated by ancestral Puebloan sites in the American Southwest.  Bandelier has been on our radar for a long time.

On our way from train watching in Vaughn NM to Durango CO we RV camped at the Elks Lodge in Los Alamos.  Bandelier was conveniently just outside the National Lab boundary.

Los Alamos itself is a very interesting city.  Lots of history with the lab there and, of course, The Manhatten Project.  The weather didn’t allow a complete  tour but we feel we will come back for more.

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Bandelier is a large ancestral Puebloan site settled by folks migrating from Chaco Canyon and Mesa Verde.  It was inhabited from around 1150 to 1550.  The many Pueblos around Sante Fe claim to be descendents of these people and still have ceremonies in the park.  Whats unique about Bandelier is the mix of large multi story  circular buildings with courtyards (as seen at Chaco) combined with cliff alcove and cave dwellings similar to Mesa Verde.  A mix of simple and very complex building styles.  There are more than 3000 documented sites just in this park.  Settlements grew from one or two families in the early period to large villages of up to 600 rooms.  The rugged landscape of mesas and canyons and volcanic rock also adds to the appeal.  Great hiking, replica ladders to climb, petroglyphs, odd rock formations all add to the appeal for us.

We’ll add Bandelier to our favorite ancestral Puebloan sites in the Southwest.  Some of others include Mesa Verde, Chaco Canyon, Hovenweep, Chimney Rock and Canyon de Chelly.  These are some of the thousands of sites reminding us of the large population who once thrived here.

 

 

 

Posted in national parks, RV Travel, Uncategorized | Tagged , | 12 Comments

Bay St. Louis Mississippi

Bay St. Louis, Mississippi.  Just what we like.  A nice state park campground, Buccaneer. Lots of history.  Some trains.  And friendly people, but not too many.

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Ground zero for Hurricane Katrina in 2005, Bay St. Louis shows lots of new construction and a beautiful classic old town.  It also shows the devastating effects of a major natural disaster.  Nearly 10 years later and a high percentage of the beach front homesites are vacant.  The gigantic oaks have grown back.  Many of the homes are now built on tall stilts, a reminder of the 30 foot storm surge.  But there are many For Sale signs on sites which must have had beautiful homes at one time.

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Bay St. Louis sits on a main CSX rail route originally built by the Louisville and Nashville Railroad – the L&N.  The 1928 depot has been beautifully preserved as a tourist center and museum.  Before Katrina the Sunset Limited passenger train would have passed through on its way from Los Angeles to Jacksonville.  Now freight trains polish the rails.

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One interesting story from Bay St. Louis was the filming of a major movie here in 1965.  “This Place is Condemned”, a Sydney Pollock film adapted from a Tennessee Williams play starred Robert Redford, Natalie Wood and Robert Blake.  Many buildings in the movie can still be seen today.

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We like Bay St. Louis.  We think we’ll visit again someday.IMG_0459 IMG_0467

Posted in RV Travel, State Parks | Tagged , , | 15 Comments

Kinghicksington Cruise Bahamas

Weekend cruises are easy and fun and accessible to large families.  We recently completed a 3 night cruise with our daughter Ginger and her new large family.  Royal Caribbean Cruise Line had a special offer which allowed kids to cruise free with paying adults.  As grandparents we were able to take 2 kids in our room while the other 3 were with Ginger and her husband.  With this arrangement Ginger and Adam were able to take all their combined children on the same cruise together.  We were happy to go along since it gave us time with the whole family in a holiday atmosphere.

Bon Voyage

Bon Voyage

The kids took to the ship right away.  The teen program was especially popular for the 14 and 15 year olds.  The younger 9 and 11’s found the activities geared more for younger kids but still had a good time hanging with their parents and grandparents.  Surprisingly, the formal style dinners in the My Fair Lady dining room were a favorite with everyone.  It was a great time for the whole family to gather and share stories of the day with all the time in the world.  After all, dinner takes 2 hours.

Cruise Di

Cruise Di

Cruise Randy

Cruise Randy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nassau New Providence was the usual mix of hawkers and gawkers.  We love the architecture and the history.  The old British Colonial hotel, the Queen’s Staircase, the straw market.

Royal Caribbean’s own out island, Coco Cay, was very mellow due to overcast skies and jellyfish everywhere.  Virtually all of us got stung if only wading in ankle deep water.  Kids loved the water slide and we enjoyed walks on the beach spotting bonefish, sharks, barracuda and rays.

 

Enchantment of the Seas

Enchantment of the Seas

Entrance to Nassau

Entrance to Nassau

33rd Anniversary couple

33rd Anniversary couple

Sunrise at sea

Sunrise at sea

 

Posted in Cruises | Tagged , , | 7 Comments

Mushroom Collecting in the San Juans

alledible

All edible

August is mushroom season in the southern Rocky Mountains.  Doctors, dentists, students, professors, locals and tourists all head to the high country to search for wild tasty mushrooms.  The most prized are the chanterelle which occur from 8000 to 10000 feet. The other commonly sought are the King Bolete which are found around 10000 feet.   These are also known as porcini.

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Boletes and Chanterelles

Our friend Chris Ricci of Majesty Mushrooms led us on a foray to learn the dos and don’ts. What a great reason to wander the spruce forests high in the San Juan Mountains. Summer 2013 has been a wet one especially at high elevation and moisture is all the mushrooms need to fruit.  It has been a very good year for porcinis while not as good for Chanterelles.  With Chris’s help we have also learned to collect Leccinum, Hawk’s Wing, Slippery Jack, Black Chanterelle and Giant Puffball.

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King Bolete or Porcini

Mushrooms must be processed within a couple days after harvesting.  Typically Chanterelles are used fresh.  Boletes are usually dried or frozen.  The Giant Puffball is as big as your head.  It can be sliced, grilled, toppings added and baked like a pizza.  Amazing.  Our favorite dish is Wild Mushroom Risotto made with porcini mushrooms.  Its earthy wild flavor goes great with the creamy rice.

Mushroom Hunter Di

Mushroom Hunter Di

hawkswing

Hawks Wing

Posted in Uncategorized | 4 Comments

Purgatory Flats Trail

Purgatory Flats is another fabulous hiking trail in the Durango CO area.  We were fortunate to hike with David and Kathryn from the hill country of Texas.  Hiking with another couple allowed us the ability to shuttle to the trailhead leaving one vehicle in town.

The trail begins near Durango Mountain Ski Resort at around 9000  feet.  It quickly descends to the Purgatory Flats area where Lime Creek joins Cascade Creek on its way to the Animas River.  After hiking the flats the trail enters a narrow canyon and the trail goes up and down sometimes steeply.  The views of the creek and rocky cliffs are amazing.  The Summer rains caught up to us just before the final switchback descent to the Animas River. Overall we hiked about 5 miles in 4 hours with many scenic breaks.

By the time we reached the river our overall descent was about 1100 feet.  We crossed the Animas on a beautiful wood deck suspension foot bridge.  This lead us to the Durango and Silverton RR pavilion where we waited out the rain.  After exploring the area up and down the river we flagged down the steam train headed back to Durango.  Unfortunately the engineer failed to stop for 4 people flagging him down.  He simply shouted over the din of the screaming locomotive “Catch the next train!”.  Well, we knew the 4PM train was the only train allowed to stop but we were hopeful.  Sure enough the 4:30 train did stop to pick us up.  We all enjoyed the spectacular scenery of the rail route through Animas Gorge and arrived back in Durango.

Home to home it was a 12 hour day and we’d do it again in a heartbeat.  The hike/train combo is one of our favorite outdoor activities.

Cascade Canyon

Cascade Canyon

Cascade Creek

Cascade Creek

D & R on trail

D & R on trail

K & D on the rocks

K & D on the rocks

Footbridge over the Animas River

Footbridge over the Animas River

Friends on the river

Friends on the river

Train that didn't pick us up

Train that didn’t pick us up

Posted in Uncategorized | 3 Comments