Death Valley National Park

What a wonderful place to spend the Winter Solstice/Christmas Holidays!

Death Valley offers peace and quiet and sunny days and starry nights.  The park is the largest in the lower 48 states.  It has mountain peaks up to 11000 feet and Badwater Valley at 282 feet below sea level.  It has Artists Drive with its gorgeous  palette of colors.  It has Mosiac Canyon with polished marble walls.  It has Zabriskie Point with great sunsets.  Every day there is more to explore.

We enjoyed many, many hikes in our 16 days in Death Valley.  Some of our  favorites include Gower Gulch, Darwin Falls, Titus Canyon, Twenty Mule Team Canyon and Desolation Canyon.  The story of the borax works adds an historic and human element.  The Timbisha Shoshone maintain a connection here to their homeland.  And of course there were prospectors and miners and the railroads that followed.

There are several campgrounds but very few hookups for RVers.  We found Sunset campground a good location close to the visitor center and the ranger programs.  The nearest affordable gas is in Beatty NV which also happens to be near the ghost town of Rhyolite.  Among other buildings in this abandoned town there is an old depot of the Tonopah and Las Vegas Railroad.  Beautiful building surrounded by an ugly fence.

This wasn’t our first visit to Death Valley and probably not our last.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes

Gower Gulch trails end

Gower Gulch trails end

Red Cathedral

Red Cathedral

Rhyolite Ghost Town

Rhyolite Ghost Town

Darwin Falls

Darwin Falls

Artist's Drive

Artist’s Drive

20 Mule Team Borax wagons

20 Mule Team Borax wagons

282 Feet Below Sea Level

282 Feet Below Sea Level

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Mohave Preserve, Kelso Depot, Zzyzx

depotcafe

Kelso Depot “Beanery” Cafe

kelsodepot

Union Pacific 1924 Kelso Depot

A great day trip from Twenty Nine Palms CA takes us North into Mohave National Preserve.  This is a huge natural desert  area with a visitor center housed in the beautifully restored Union Pacific Kelso Depot originally built in 1924.  The National Park Service has some interesting displays and a good video as well as a restored cafe.  There is also a fine N scale model of the depot and its surroundings during the heyday of World War II.  This place was booming with traffic and supplied helper locomotives to get trains over Cima grade.  UP closed the depot in 1985.  It is amazing to think of all the people who have lived here or stopped on their way somewhere over the years.  The cafe concession business is for sale if anyone’s interested.

N Scale Depot Model

N Scale Depot Model

Also in the preserve is the most dense Joshua Tree forest in the world.  There are also lava tubes and cinder cones and of course mountains and lots of peace and quiet just minutes from the busy I-15 freeway connecting Los Angeles and Las Vegas.

An interesting side trip off the 15 is Zzyzx.  Those readers familiar with Michael Connelly’s work may know the place from his book “The Narrows”.  It is a real place on dry Soda Lake.  There is a mineral spring which attracted native Americans for thousands of years.  Later the Tonapah and Tidewater RR came here to water their locomotives.  In the thirties a sleazy preacher came to build a spa and “healing water” business.  Eventually the BLM took the property from the con man and its now home to the Cal State University Desert Studies program.  Its another desert oasis the NPS hopes to restore someday.

UPCalAd

Union Pacific Advertising

zzyzxsign

exit sign for Zzyzx

zzyzxpool

Zzyzx Mineral Springs Pond

bnsfatamboy

BNSF crossing at Amboy CA

moonrise

Moonrise over Twenty Nine Palms

Posted in Uncategorized | 6 Comments

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

Wow!  A green desert.  The Sonora desert in southern Arizona has in fact 3 rainy seasons when it receives just enough rain for a fantastic array of species to thrive.  The most famous of which are the Organ Pipe and Saguaro cactus.  These grow into huge specimen.  This region has been recognized by the United Nations as a special biosphere reserve.

Strange Saguaro arms

Strange Saguaro arms

Organ Pipe Cactus

Organ Pipe Cactus

OrganPipeSaguaro

Saguaro Cactus

The campground at this park is one of the most beautiful we have ever seen.  Big RV sites with paved parking slabs and mature landscaping separates each site.  Landscaping that includes giant sagauro, huge organ pipes, cholla, ocotillo, palo verde, ironwood, creosote and many other plants we haven’t identified yet.  With our Golden Age Pass we stay here for only $6/night.  Of course there are no RV hookups but there are flush toilets, convenient fresh water and a dump station on site.  Generators are permitted during morning and afternoon periods.  What more do you want for your self-contained RVer.  It is pristine and quiet and warm when most of the country is cold.

Twin Peaks Campground

Twin Peaks Campground

We can see a small border town in Mexico from our RV and “cross border incursions” do occur in this park.  National Park Service and Border Patrol people are everywhere especially at night.  During the day we have seen black water bottles discarded by travelers near trails in the park but we always feel safe.  We hiked to abandoned gold and silver mines and to early 20th century ranch sites deep in mountain canyons.  A park service van tour led us to rare crested cacti and incredible bird nests

Posing with a crested organ pipe

Posing with a crested organ pipe

Every evening in the park the volunteer staff offered a very informative program about the desert.  We learned about the captive breeding of the Sonoran pronghorn  to hopefully save it from extinction.  In 2002 there were only 22 left!  And we learned about so many desert plant and animal species including the packrat, the ocotillo and the creosote bush.

We love this place and we will return again.  This park is a good place to visit from January to March.  In the Summer its a whole different story with temperatures reaching 120 degrees F.  Far too hot for most people.

Forest at Organ Pipe

Forest at Organ Pipe

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Tacos Again Again

Here we go again with some of our favorite meals from the Southwest.  Of course squash blossoms are usually only available if you or a friend have a garden, but get them if you can.  Its worth it!  And the best green chiles in the world are fresh roasted in the Southwestern US.   But you can roast your own big green anaheim or New Mexico chiles over a grill until they blister.  Then cool in a paper bag. But we all make do with what we have.

Squash Blossom Tacos

Squash Blossom Tacos

16 Male Squash Blossoms with stamens removed (these are easily identified by their long stem and stamen in the middle of the flower, don’t pick them all or the bees won’t be able to pollinate the female blossoms and make squash)

1medium to large onion, fine diced                                                                                                                       1 tomato, diced                                                                                                                                                                       1 clove garlic, minced                                                                                                                                                   2 T olive oil                                                                                                                                                                       1/2 t salt, 1/4 t pepper                                                                                                                                                 1.5 cups Jack Cheese, grated                                                                                                                                     Corn Tortillas

Saute onions and tomatoes for 3 minutes.  Add garlic, salt and pepper and saute 2 minutes.  Add squash blossoms and saute 1 minute, stirring constantly.  Then add cheese and stir until melted and blended with veggies.  Serve in heated corn tortillas.  We put some fresh sliced avocado on top but these are delicious with nothing added.

Potato and Green Chile Tacos

Potato and Green Chile Tacos

The key here is great tasting potatoes whether fingerling, baby reds or assorted organics.  This has become a favorite served with avocado salsa.

3 cups potatoes, cooked firm, then sliced thin                                                                                                                                  

2 cloves garlic, minced                                                                                                                                                                

1/2 cup onion, diced                                                                                                                                                    

1 cup Roma tomatoes, diced                                                                                                                                    

1 cup roasted green chiles, peeled, seeded and chopped (approx. 4 chiles)                                                         3 T olive oil                                                                                                                                                                      

1 t salt, 1/2 t pepper                                                                                                                                                                        

1/2 cup jack cheese, shredded                                                                                                                                

Corn or flour tortillas

Saute onions in olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes.  Add garlic, saute 1 or 2 minutes.  Add potatoes and tomatoes, saute 3 to 4 minutes.  Add green chiles, reduce heat, cook until potatoes are tender.  Stir to prevent burning.   Stir in cheese, salt and pepper.  Heat until cheese is melted and blended.  Serve in corn or flour tortillas.  We love it with avocado salsa.

Avocado Salsa

1/4 large onion, coarsely chopped                                                                                                                         1 jalapena, cut off stem and cut into 4 pieces                                                                                                                         1 clove garlic, peeled                                                                                                                                                                      1 Haas avocado (or 1/2 FL avocado) perfectly ripe                                                                                                                               1 T sour cream                                                                                                                                                                 1/4 t salt, 1/4 t pepper                                                                                                                                                 2 scallions, chopped fine                                                                                                                                             2 T cilantro, chopped fine                                                                                                                                                            3 cups plus 2 T water                                                                                                                                                                      1 t lime juice

Boil onions, jalapena, garlic in 3 cups water for 6 or 7 minutes.  Drain water and add veggies to food processor along with avocado, sour cream, salt, pepper, lime juice and 2 T water, blend until smooth.   Add scallion and cilantro.  Serve on anything!

Trout Ceviche

Rocky Mountain Trout Ceviche

This is a great recipe from Chef Lauren at the Durango Farmers Market.  The lime juice “cooks” the fish with no heat for a wonderful warm weather dish.

  • 2 whole Rocky Mountain Trout (these are 10-12 inch fish) skinned and filleted
  • 5 or 6 limes, juiced
  • 1/4 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped
  • 1/4 cucumber, seeded and diced
  • 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
  • 1/2 red onion, diced
  • 1/4 t or more to taste cayenne

salt and pepper to taste

Dice fish into half inch pieces.  Combine all in non-reactive dish.  refrigerate one hour or more.  Serve with tortilla chips.

Posted in food | 3 Comments

Carson City Rail Event

As luck would have it we found a rail event in nearby Carson City on our first weekend in Northern Nevada.  It was Nevada Day and the event was held at the Nevada State Railroad Museum.  We had visited the museum in 2007 for another excellent event.

This event featured the restored 1910 McKeen rail motorcar.  It is the only operating one of its kind.  The other is stationary in Alaska.  This car operated from Reno to nearby Minden Nevada from 1910 to 1945 hauling passengers, mail and some freight as an economic alternative to full rail service.  Its art deco design is absolutely beautiful.  And we enjoyed a great ride.

McKeen Car Interior

McKeen Car Interior

Carson City NV

Carson City NV

1910 McKeen Car

1910 McKeen Car

nevadaMcKeenCar

Nevada State RR Museum

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Cascade Hike

D&S dropping off us hikers

Another great day in Durango.  One of the unique activities afforded by the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is the chance to be dropped off in the wilderness for dayhikes or overnight hikes.  The train gets you deep into the wilderness before you even begin your hike.  The Weminuche Wilderness is the largest in Colorado.  This section of the San Juan National Forest is closed to all mechanized vehicles.  So there are no ATVs, no mountain bikes.  There is only foot and horse traffic.

Di on the river

The only exception is a narrow corridor for the Silverton train.  There are 3 flag stops where the train will stop to drop off or pickup passengers.  Most hikers are headed into the Chicago Basin from Needleton to hike some of the 3 Fourteeners accessible for multi-night hikers.

Randy on the river trail

We chose a day hike from Cascade along the Animas River.  What great fun to have the train stop to drop us off, watch it roll off in the distance, then hike along the beautiful river surrounded by gorgeous peaks breaking out  in Fall aspen gold.  After a picnic on the river we hiked back to the flag stop for the return trip to Durango.  Hiking and riding the train in the same day!  It doesn’t get any better.

Picnic spot on the Animas River

Flagstop pickup for the ride back to Durango

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Railfest 2012

Locomotive Eureka & Palisade #4

E&P #4 Wood Burner

E&P #4 built in 1875

The Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad celebrated Railfest again August 17-20.   This year the fest was managed by True West Magazine.  We think this was an attempt to broaden the appeal beyond train fans.  Of course , to most railfans this was a dilution of value accompanied by an increase in prices.  We chased trains and hiked to some unique vantage points for good photography.

Railfest Heritage Train

Galloping Goose #5

Rio Grande Southern #4

D&S locomotive 486 in Silverton

Posted in Durango, Uncategorized | Tagged | 4 Comments

Square Foot Gardening

One of my jobs workamping at the Durango KOA is to manage a Square Foot Vegetable Garden.  In the ongoing effort to support the Green Movement across the globe, the KOA seeks to add something every year.  This year owners Jay and Carol decided a demonstration vegetable garden would add a lot to the experience of staying at the campground.  After visiting Dianne and I in Florida last Winter and seeing our garden there, they asked me to help with a square foot garden in Colorado.  This was very exciting for me as I’ve only gardened in Florida for the past 30 plus years.

Typical Raised Bed of a Square Foot Garden

Durango KOA Square Foot Garden

As garden manager I give a talk each week to guests interested in what we are doing.  It is great fun to hear garden stories from people from California to Connecticut to Chicago to Albuquerque to Berlin.  The beauty of the square foot system is that it can be applied to any environment.  It takes the native soil out of the equation.  The raised bed and custom mix promotes success.  Weeds, drought, flooding and tilling are no longer problems.  The raised beds even ease the bending and reaching that challenges many people.

Tuesday Garden Talk

Every week we give away produce to our guests.  They all seem to appreciate fresh, fresh produce during their days traveling.  So far we have harvested 4 kinds of lettuce (some in 40 days from seed), 5 kinds of radishes, mustard greens, collard greens, swiss chard, turnips, sweet peppers, hot New Mexican chile peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, cilantro, green beans, wax beans, zucchini, gold zucchini, summer squash and kohlrabi.   Pumpkins,cucumbers and acorn squash are on the way.

Square Foot Garden in August

Tomatoes Galore

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USA Pro Cycling Challenge

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Tacos Again

Food is always a insightful part of every culture.  In the American Southwest food introduces us to the gigantic contributions of native cultures to the food world.  Corn,  beans and squash are called the Three Sisters.  These foods are natives of the Americas and literally changed the world when they were spread around.

One of our great pleasures in living in the Southwest these last two Summers has been discovering the wonders of Tacos.  Here are some of the more interesting taco recipes.  Later we’ll have more tacos and a little Ceviche from chef Lauren at the Durango Farmers Market.

Spinach Bean Tacos

Spinach Bean Tacos

  • 1 Roma tomato, diced
  • 1 sweet onion, diced
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 9 oz. spinach, chopped
  • 2 T olive oil
  • 1 cup pinto beans, cooked
  • 1/2 t salt
  • 1/4 t pepper
  • 3/4 cup queso fresco. crumbled
  • corn tortillas

Heat oil, cook onions, then garlic, then tomato 3-5 minutes.  Add pinto beans, salt and pepper.  Cook 2-4 minutes. Add spinach and cook until just wilted.  Serve in warmed corn tortillas.  Put crumbled cheese on top.  Add chipotle salsa for a little more spice.

Chipotle Salsa

  • 2 T chipotle en adobo peppers, chopped
  • 1 cup tomato sauce
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1/2 t salt

In blender or food processor blend until smooth.

Mushroom Tacos

  • 1 cup onion, sliced thin
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 6- 8 cups assorted mushrooms, sliced thin
  • 3 T olive oil
  • 1/2 t salt
  • 1/2 t pepper
  • 1.5 cups jack cheese, shredded
  • corn or flour tortillas

Summer Squash Tacos

Summer Squash Tacos

  • 3 medium squash, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
  • 1/2 onion, chopped
  • 2 green chile peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 T olive oil
  • 1 cup corn kernals, fresh or frozen
  • 1/2 t slat
  • 1/4 t pepper
  • 1 cup queso fresco, crumbled
  • corn tortillas

Heat oil, add squash, cook 3 minutes.  Add onion, coom 1 minute then turn heat to low.  Add green chiles and garlic, cook 2 minutes.  Add corn, salt and pepper, cook 2 minutes or until corn is heated.  Serve immediately with crumbled cheese on top.  Great with tomatilla salsa.

Tomatilla Salsa

  • 8-10 tomatillas, medium to large
  • 3 T olive oil
  • 1 onion
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2-3 green chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • 1/2 cup cilantro, chopped
  • 1-2 t salt
  • 1/2 t pepper

Preheat oven to 375.  Soak tomatillas in warm water for 2 minutes, peel husk.  Cut each tomatilla into 2-4 pieces, place on baking sheet lined with parchment paper, spray with olive oil.  Then roast for 30 minutes, turning once.  Place cooked tomatillas, onions, garlic in food processor, blend until smooth.  Add green chiles, cilantro, salt and pepper and blend for 1 more minute.  Great on anything.

Posted in Durango | Tagged | 10 Comments